Fertilizer Schedule by Plant Age
Fertilizer Schedule by Plant Age This blog is to give the basic information on how to use fertilizer. I’m not an agronomist; this is just to guide you on how to apply the fertilizer on plants based on research I did. Fertilizer Application Schedule How to Make Compost: A Complete Guide What is composting? Composting is the natural process of recycling organic material food scraps, yard waste into a useful amendment for soil. Microorganisms break down organic material in an aerobic environment, generating nutrient-rich “black gold” for your plants. Basic Principles of Composting: What happens? Microorganisms (bacteria, fungi) consume organic material Heat is produced during microbial activity (130-160°F for active compost) Material is broken down into simpler compounds Finished product is dark, crumbly and smells earthy What you need: Carbon material (“browns”) dry, woody materials Nitrogen material (“greens”) fresh moist materials Oxygen—through aerobic activity Moisture—proper water levels Time—3-12 months depending on technique The Carbon-Nitrogen Ratio: Brown materials (carbon-rich): Dry leaves—great for carbon Shredded newspaper/cardboard—non-glossy, printed ink Wood chips/sawdust—avoid treated wood Straw/hay—avoid fresh grass clippings Corn stalks—chop small Pine needles—limited use (acidic) Green materials (nitrogen rich): Kitchen scraps—vegetable skins, fruit scraps, coffee grounds Fresh grass clippings—lay thin Garden trimmings—soft green plant material Manure—from herbivores only (cow, horse, rabbit) Seaweed—if available, great addition The Ideal Ratio: 30:1 Carbon to Nitrogen (by weight) In practical approach: About 3 parts brown to 1 part green (by volume) Rule of thumb: For every layer of green, cover with 3x more brown material The Don’ts: What should NOT go into compost? Meat, fish and bones—attracts pests and creates smell Dairy—milk, cheese, butter (attracts pests) Fats/oils—slow to break down, attracts animals Pet waste—dog/cats have parasites that are not good for gardens Diseased plants—promotes diseases among plants Seeds from weeds—unless you’re achieving high temperatures in compost Wood products with treatment—contains chemicals that are toxic Use With Caution: Citrus peels – acidic, use small amounts Onion/garlic scraps – can repel beneficial worms Glossy paper – may contain harmful inks Human waste – never appropriate for home composting 4 Composting Methods To Try Out 1. Hot Composting (Berkeley Method) The Berkeley Method of hot composting is a fast, high-temperature composting technique developed by the University of California, Berkeley, that produces finished compost in about 18 days. It requires maintaining the compost pile’s temperature between 55-65°C (131-149°F) and a carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio of around 25-30:1. The ideal compost pile size is roughly 1 meter by 1 meter wide and 1.5 meters high. The basic steps are: Day 1: Build the compost heap by layering alternating thin layers of greens (nitrogen-rich materials) and browns (carbon-rich materials). Wet the pile thoroughly until water drips from the bottom. Optionally, add a compost activator such as comfrey, nettle, urine, or old compost at the center. Days 2-4: Let the pile sit without turning to allow microbial activity to begin and heat to build up. Day 5: Turn the compost by moving the outside layers to the center and the inside layers to the outside (essentially turning the pile “inside-out”). Maintain moisture at about one drop of water released when squeezing a handful. Days 6-18: Turn the pile every second day, continuing to monitor moisture and temperature. The peak temperature of 55-65°C occurs typically between days 7 and 9, which kills most pathogens and weed seeds. Day 18: The compost should be finished and ready to mature or use. The method emphasizes careful turning and moisture control to sustain thermophilic (heat-loving) microbes, which accelerate decomposition. The pile size and C:N balance are crucial for generating and maintaining heat. This approach is used in a batch system and can be adapted to two or four-bin systems for continuous composting. The Berkeley hot composting method produces rich, high-quality compost fast, helping to reduce waste and improve soil health effectively. 2. Cold Composting (Passive Method) Cold composting refers to a passive composting method which allows for decomposition of organic material over time without added heat. This means it takes a year or more to come to completion to create finished compost. Facts about cold composting (passive method): Requires little effort and turning is not needed. Materials to be composted are put into a pile or a bin and left alone. Passive relies on ambient microbial actions and decomposing macro-organisms such as worms and sowbugs. Piles must remain moist (like a wrung out sponge) and balanced between browns (carbon rich materials) and greens (nitrogen rich materials). The pile should ideally be in contact with the soil to allow for organisms to gain access to materials. Space is larger compared to hot composting as the requirement is longer, cannot be compact. Common methods of implementation are through backyard piles, bins or the three-bin system where one bin is used each year with rotation annually. Good for the gardener who does not need compost imminently and wants an organic option with little intervention. Cold composting is eco-friendly but takes time and isn’t as effective at destroying pathogens and weed seeds as hot composting does. 3. Tumbler Composting A compost tumbler is a drum style compost bin that turns for easy turning and faster composting compared to standard compost bins. Tumblers are typically elevated which means less issues with pests and the way they are designed, they get good aeration since turning the contents provides oxygen that helps decompose faster. Key features and benefits include: Easy turning by rotating the drum a few times each week. Faster composting due to consistent aeration. Pest-resistant design as they are sealed and often elevated. Options between single or dual chambers for batch or continuous composting. They are placed in sunny or partially shaded spots to help heat and accelerate breakdown. Materials that can be used in a compost tumbler come from a ratio of greens (nitrogen-rich) like fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, and manure; and browns (carbon-rich) like dead leaves, straw, sawdust, and shredded paper. What should not be added include meat, fish, dairy, bones, pet feces, oils, and diseased plants. To maintain a